Summary: we sent that shit.
Bugaboo Spire, NE Ridge
It was my first trip to the Bugs, and Neale's first that oughta count. As is often the case, I was pretty out of shape when we went. At least out of rock climbing shape. Neale, as is often the case, was in shape and was like a border collie after a tennis ball. This created drama nearly from the start - for example, the day we arrived at Applebee Neale couldn't help but notice that it was still early afternoon and the sun was shining. I couldn't help but notice that I was exhausted from the hike in. Neale soloed the tower right near camp, and I rested.
The next morning dawned partly cloudy. Neale thought we should climb. I thought we should sleep. We were both right, but we succeeded in climbing the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire anyway.
I say we were both right about sleeping in, because it was socked-in up high.
And the summit shot. The whole time we were in the Bugs I was obsessed with making this face in every photo. Get used to it. Sometimes it worked better than others. Neale, unfortunately, wasn't posing.
The Next Day: Snowpatch Route on Snowpatch Spire and the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire
The next day Neale didn't see any reason that we shouldn't launch directly out of my sleeping bag and onto Snowpatch Spire. I grudgingly agreed that he was right.
Our new friends Don and Garrett followed us up the route.
Neale on the summit ridge, as seen from the summit.
This is going in the Stupid Summit Photos Hall of Fame for sure.
Rapping down the Kraus-McCarthy
The same day: the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire
Then we walked over to the West Ridge of Pigeon.
...in excellent style.
We got there as the masses were leaving.
I was straddling the ridge over huge exposure, but does Neale get that in the photo? No.....
Japanese tourist motif.
Summit.
Don and Garrett followed us up this, too.
The Day After Next: The Beckey-Chouinard on South-Howser Tower
The day after we walked over to East Creek and slept. In the end, we didn't need the extra time, but we didn't know that. Based on reputation, I thought that the Beckey was gonna be real, real hard. But its actually pretty moderate. Of course, Neale led every pitch over 5.8 - wanna make routes easy? Get a rope gun.
Looking down at our camp from the start of the difficulties on the Beckey.
"What's up there?"
"Oh god!"
"Well Seth, only one thing to do."
There were four parties on the route that day - we were number 3. Party number 4 got benighted real bad - they were good climbers, but as soon as I saw them belay I knew they were gonna sleep on the route. Party 1 was 2 people that are on a quest to climb all the 50 classics. They were nice people, but I doubt make their quest. Notably because the routes that they're most likely to die on are the ones that are least worth dying for, and I think they know that, too. There are four people climbing this beautiful 5.8 corner.
Looking back down.
Chris and Ryan from Squamish. I was bonking, but Chris had just had one of those 5-hour energy things and told me about it 1,000 times. Ryan was freeing (rather that A0ing) the traverse. If he fell, he would land on me.
I have some summit photos, but I have food in my teeth, and I don't want to look stupid on my own blog. Well, I have one good photo. I'll post it later. But we did a team rappel - all six of us leap-frogging down with our ropes.
Me, on the walk back into East Creek, soaking in the views from the Pigeon-Howser Col.
The next morning, looking up at the route. You can see two people bailing (thunderstorms came in in the afternoon - Don and Garrett were on the summit when they came in and they both discussed the experience with an almost-religious reverence. Apparently the boulder they were hiding under got struck by lightning twice.
Me, packing up. The next day we climbed the McTech Arete (no photos - camera died, if I remember right) and then hiked out to climb in the Rockies. Post to follow.
Cool, that facial expression makes it look like you climb hard stuff. i must remember that. nice pics.
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